Forty-Three

Baton Rouge, Lousiana

Despite my native Pennsylvanian pride Louisiana might be a legitimate contender for the Union’s “Most Corrupt State” award. In my political touristing I saw a statue to the governor who finally managed to outlaw the Louisiana State Lottery in the latter years of the 19th century. He had a hell of a fight on his hands and, in the end, only managed to force the Lottery outside the state’s borders. It continued to function from a Caribbean island until the Federal Government outlawed gaming through the mail. Now that’s a delightfully corrupt place.

Baton Rouge seems to be a monument to Huey P. Long. The monstrously huge new State Capitol is his baby. The Old Governor’s Mansion was the New Governor’s Mansion during his tenure after he planted a single imported termite in the older Governor’s Mansion and had state prisoners immediately tear down the thus condemned building. The stories about Governor/Senator Long – he briefly held both offices at the same time – and his gubernatorial successors are so bizarre I had to ask my tour guide when being a character ceased to be a qualification for becoming Governor of Louisiana.

I kind of like the place. It’s got that previously remarked upon sense of genteel corruption, good weather, a beautiful view of the Mississippi River and some truly magnificent scenery – most thanks to Huey P. Long. And it’s got less tourists, tourist traps and general bullshit than the Crescent City. Which is both a good and a bad thing.

And it’s the Crescent City, the Big Easy, N’Awlins next. God help me.

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