Two

Damn me and my leisurely museum pace. I had hoped to hit the Mariners Museum in Newport News and Fortress Monroe before I went across the harbor tomorrow to Norfolk. Naturally, I spent the entire goddamned day in the Mariners Museum and didn’t do Fortress Monroe. And I will be goddamned if I don’t stop by there while I’m in the area. So, I suppose I’ll be later than expected rolling into Nags Head Monday.

The Mariners Museum is home to the relics of the Monitor. They’ve got a hellaciously spiffy wing dedicated to the story of the Monitor and Merrimack – or Merrimac, or Virginia as the docent pointed out to me – all in all very cool. When the docent was explaining to me the layout and exhibits of the museum and mentioned a gallery on Admiral Nelson, I pointed out that it wasn’t much more than two weeks ago when I was aboard the Victory. I think the old fellow had to do a double-take before commenting, “I guess you’ve been travelling a bit, then.” Christ, man. I can’t even comprehend the scope of where I’ve been. I won’t hold it against you to be kerfluffled.

I was somewhat disappointed in the presentation of the Monitor‘s conservation tanks. I saw the Mary Rose in its palace of stygian gloom, I saw the Hunley in its custom-built swimming pool: both inspired a sense of awe and wonder at the remarkable artifact now visible after decades or centuries buried in the depths. The turret of the Monitor was only a shadowy brownish ring on the surface of a murky pool. The viewing gallery was just a catwalk along some windows. No sense of wonder or of awe. Just a minor annoyance that there was bugger all to see as you dodged ignorant tourists debating the merits of taking a dip in the hotel pool tonight now that the lab tanks had brought still bodies of water to mind. Damned irritating. Note to the Mariners Museum, put a goddamned plexiglass plate in the side or something. Throw those of us who take this seriously a bone. Don’t let the Royal Navy put you to shame.

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